At a recent meeting of the new Goods and Service Tax (GST) Council, the Finance Ministers of Indian states had to discuss tax rates for 1,210 items. Yet, according to a report, they spent half an hour on dried fish. Manipur’s FM argued for exempting dried fish from duty, and received support, but finally it was agreed to tax it at the lowest possible rate. This was a welcome acknowledgement of the importance of dried fish in many Indian diets, especially as the monsoon begins. Dried and smoked fish is important in the Northeast, but it is also vital on the Western Coast where wild monsoon seas stop boats from venturing out. Dried fish was the one source of protein that helped coastal communities through the monsoon months. It wasn’t surprising though that it was Manipur’s FM championing dried fish, rather than FMs from Maharashtra, Karnataka or Kerala. Northeastern states have real pride in their local foods, even those with strong, funky flavours and you don’t get much funkier than dried fish. West Coast people seem embarrassed by them, or are represented by FMs from state interiors who ignore coastal concerns. Dried fish smells strongly both in drying and cooking it and this is why restaurants rarely serve it and people who live in apartments stop making it for fear of antagonising neighbours. Chef Ananda Solomon always regretted not being able to serve the dried fish dishes of his native Mangalore at his signature Konkan Café restaurant, but the luxury hotel it was in would never have allowed it. Dried fish was particularly important in Goa. The Catholic Church in Europe decreed Friday to be a fasting day, but fish was allowed. This created a huge demand for dried fish and the Portuguese brought this practice to Goa where it meshed neatly with existing dried fish consumption. But while most people just ate the local dried fish and shrimp, the more prestigious option was dried cod from Europe, called bacalhau. This requires much soaking before it can be used, and even then the flavour can be a bit overwhelming. Perhaps the best way to have it is the way the restaurant Chef Fernando’s Nostalgia in South Goa serves it, fried into delicate little balls, an ideal appetiser to have with drinks. Dried fish might actually be best as a flavouring rather than a main ingredient, adding a strong yet subtle powerful back of the palate flavour. This is how the Japanese use it, immersing katsuoboshi, dried tuna flakes, in boiling water to give the savoury stock that underlies many of their recipes. Closer to home, Sri Lanka depends on umbalakada, dried tuna from the Maldives for the characteristic deep, rich taste in their food. Taking a cue from that, try using the tiny dried shrimp called jawala in Maharashtra by adding it to stock or powdering it to use like a spice. It is certainly worth paying a small tax for the subtle savour it will add to your cooking.